貝珠長衣

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Shell Bead Vest

材質:麻、貝殼 Ramie, shell

泰雅族對襟無領無袖長上衣(貝珠衣),長衣以米白色苧麻布為底,夾織紅色毛線及少量藍色麻線,織布過程中並穿串硨磲蛤磨製成的細小圓柱狀白貝珠於經線或緯線當中,使貝珠串橫綴或縱綴並排對齊。此種貝珠衣為泰雅族男子禮服,通常一件長背心會縫上數萬粒的貝珠,重約3、4公斤,是泰雅族最貴重的禮服。一般為族長、親團組織的首長,以及獵頭最多的勇士在特定儀式舉行時才可以穿戴。貝珠衣雖然具有衣服的形式,卻因重量過重而失去實際功用。日本時代時亦作為貨幣或聘禮之用。是結婚時男方送給女方的聘禮,少則一件,多則數十件不等。

This long vest is made with a base of off-white ramie fabric, interwoven with red wool yarn and a small amount of blue hemp thread. During the weaving process, small cylindrical white shell beads, crafted from clamshells, are threaded into the warp or weft threads, creating rows of horizontally or vertically aligned beads. This type of beaded vest is part of the traditional attire for Atayal men. Typically, a single long vest is adorned with tens of thousands of shell beads, weighing approximately 3 to 4 kilograms, making it the most precious attire among the Atayal people. It is reserved for specific ceremonies and is worn by tribal chiefs, leaders of kinship groups, and warriors with significant headhunting achievements.

Despite its clothing form, the beaded vest has lost its practical function due to its weight. During the Japanese colonial era, it was also used as a form of currency or betrothal gift. It is customary for the groom to present the bride with a beaded vest as part of the engagement gift, with the number of vests varying from one to several dozen.

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